After two weeks of surfing and three surf photo days, I was given a flash drive with all of my surf photos on it! I’m super pumped to be able to share with you my progress in surfing!! You can finally see what I’ve been bruising myself over (that’s more in the wipe outs haha). And so without anymore delay, here are the photos!!
But surfing is certainly not effortless, that’s for sure. With every smooth run you see, there were plenty of wipe outs to get there. So please enjoy my many failed attempts (a few of them literally left bruises).
As far as today went … well, I didn’t actually do much. You know how yesterday I said surfing is about mind over matter? Well today I knew that I had pushed myself enough. I was exhausted in every sense of the word, and I couldn’t seem to muster up the energy to get out of the boat and surf. Luckily though, the waves were very boring at about hip high. So if I was going to miss a day, today was a good day to miss.
After we returned to the camp, I called a driver to take me to my favorite spot in Kuta: Novatel. Here I was able to get away from camp and work on my computer at a 5-star resort for a few hours. And I had a piece of one of those molten lava chocolate cakes. Nom nom nom.
Since tomorrow is the last day of surf, I really wanted to be rested up and give it my all. I think a break was just what I needed.
Surf Photos: underthezee – go check out her stuff! She’s super talented and so lovely. Thanks for the photos!