Just another day where we casually wake up, pack up the boat, and cruise for about an hour to a secret surf location. I mean, it’s a hard life but someone has to do it, you know?
Long boat rides give plenty of opportunities such as sleeping, tanning, eating … etc. I generally cover my body in sunscreen and take a quick nap as the sunscreen soaks in. Today, my #1 priority was to not get sunburned. Priority #2 was to rotate my torso towards the direction that the wave was breaking. And lastly, priority #3 – paddle harder.
Ever since Costa Rica, my biggest problem with surfing is that I’m a weak paddler. I just don’t have a lot of upper body strength. But the longer I stay at this camp and paddle my little heart out, the stronger I get.
This was the same wave break that we did a few days ago that broke to the left. But this time I felt more stable and compressed than last time. But you know, I have plenty of room to grow.
By the time we cruised back to the camp and cleaned up, it was already time to head out for a sunset walk. We climbed into the back of a truck and drove 20 minutes outside of the village to a beautiful sunset lookout spot.
As we were taking in the unbelievable views, a monkey just came out of nowhere! … Annnnnd grabbed a bag of fries from some tourists. There was no stopping this hungry monkey. This photo of my surf instructor and the monkey just cracks me up.
After watching my millionth sunset across the world, I just can’t stop thinking, “How did I get here??”
This time last year, I was biking and busing to work every day. Counting pennies and saving every single little bit I could. Being diligent and persistent for 16 months.
And now? Now I’m in Indonesia learning how to surf. Watching sunsets with a monkey. Riding in the back of trucks across back roads with new friends.
Every sacrifice I’ve ever made for this trip was worth it. Completely, totally, hands down worth it.