Today I just didn’t want to surf.
I was tired, mentally drained, and to be honest, a little moody. I just didn’t feel like spending hours in the sun and getting pummeled by waves. And I think that’s pretty reasonable.
But I also knew that I had the strength to push through.
So instead of skipping the morning session, I put on my sunscreen, grabbed my board, and headed out. And of course, it was in this session that I made killer progress. I was able to really hone in on compressing my body to generate more speed and control in those bottom turns.
After feeling completely satisfied and content on my morning session, I had another little thought sneak into my head: “C’mon Meagan, stop while you’re ahead. You don’t need to go out for the 2nd session. You earned a break.”
And with that little thought, I was dead set on taking the afternoon off.
Buuuuuut then I had another thought: “You’re tougher than that, and you’re in Indonesia. Get on that surfboard.”
And so I put on more sunscreen for round two.
It would be really poetic to say that I had another killer session, but it wasn’t my best. However, I had some really amazing runs with the waves being head high, and I felt unbelievably proud of myself.
Overall, I’m learning that surfing is both physically demanding and mentally challenging. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if your mind is telling you no out of preservation or laziness. And when you learn to tell the difference, you can push yourself so much further.
After my second surf session, I rewarded myself with a massage. This massage was absolute heaven. But also insanely painful. You know those massages where they dig a shovel into your shoulders to work out those knots? Yep, I had one of those. But now I feel light as a feather!
The rest of the evening includes dinner and photo analysis. I currently hear thunder rolling in, and I’m excited about a calm night.
(Fun fact – I’m writing this with a clay mask on my face. If you could actually see my surroundings every time I wrote these posts, you’d laugh for sure sometimes.)