After having been in Australia for almost a month, the waves were decent enough to finally go out surfing!
To be honest, if I would’ve known that the waves were going to be this flat, I would’ve surfed every day in Bali. But alas, it is what it is. And today was going to be a surfing day – finally!
I woke up at 6:30am to meet up with the other guys in the hostel, load up, and head out.
Side note – why don’t more girls surf? I was the only girl surfing with the hostel guys that morning, and then I later didn’t see any girls in the water either. I was 1 girl in an ocean of like 50 dudes. C’mon girls!
We drove out to a beach break up the road from the hostel called Duranbah beach (affectionately nicknamed D’bah) to see how the waves were doing. After having spent days in a surf town without waves, we didn’t really care about the conditions of the waves; we would’ve surfed on anything.
I had a great time getting back into the swing of surfing. I do have two things that I’ve been working on: 1) paddling harder. Always paddling harder. 2) fighting to gain priority of the wave.
Because the waves haven’t been strong lately, everyone is super cranky about catching a good wave (sometimes there’s only about 5-10 good waves in an hour). Because everyone is cranky, everyone is fighting for the wave. And I’m a little too timid at this stage to fight for a wave that’s clearly breaking where I am. I had one guy continuously drop in on my wave, and it was getting incredibly frustrating.
Later after surfing, I hung out with my hostel friend Hannah and got ice cream. And after an afternoon of laying by the beach, a few of us went back out for a sunset surf session.
I went to bed happy but exhausted.