Today we had another boat trip planned for a secret surf spot about an hour or so away. A lot of the campers were excited about this surf spot because the waves broke left.
Surfing Lingo Lessons with Meagan:
The direction that a wave breaks can matter quite a bit depending on each surfer’s stance. For instance, I’m a “regular” foot surfer because I have my left foot out front on the board. Some surfers are called “goofy” foot because they surf with their right foot out on the board. So the direction that a wave breaks will determine which way a surfer will face.
Frontside: when a surfer’s chest is facing the direction the wave is breaking.
Backside: when a surfer’s back is facing the direction the wave is breaking.
So bringing it back to our boat trip, a wave that breaks left will be front side for goofy footers and back side for regular footers.
Still a little lost? Bottom line: today my back was going to be facing the wave which makes it a little harder.
Surprisingly though, today was my best session yet! My pop up felt sturdy, and I had crazy steep drop-ins on some waves. My only problem? Gaining balance as I tried to look over my shoulder. But overall, I had a really fun time today on the waves! I really do think that the balance board I’ve been working on has helped a ton.
We have about a 2-hour break before we all head out to the bigger village Kuta next to Gerupuk and have dinner together. When you surf, struggle, and bruise together, you become a little family. And it’s only day 6 – not even halfway. Imagine after two full weeks together.
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- Trying to act candid haha
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