Today I remembered it all again. Surfing is hard.
This morning started with waking up at 6:45am for a surf session. Compared to my surf camp in Costa Rica, we took boats out instead of swimming from shore to get to the break. It felt a lot like valet service, and it’s amazing to not waste so much energy on endless paddling.
The waves were nice and clean, but the lulls were a bit long. My pop ups were a bit weak, and I wasted a few good waves because of it. I also cut my heel on a high reef yesterday, and I was really feeling it. With every position move on the board, my foot would sting a little.
We came back to grab breakfast and a quick nap. We had two hours to rest up and reapply sunscreen before heading back out. It’s easy to grab quick naps when you’re utterly exhausted.
We went back out for Round 2, and I had a much better session. I was riding almost every wave I went for. Unfortunately, I rode a wave pretty far in, and I had to paddle back. I took a left wave and the channel I was aiming for was on the right (simple talk – I rode a wave to the left and the calm part was all the way on the right). In my attempt to get over to the right channel, I got drilled by set after set of waves. I must have been doing turtle rolls for 15-20 minutes before I made it to the top of the channel. By that point, I was so incredibly exhausted. I just couldn’t anymore.
When we returned back, I ate lunch and did a bit of stretching. And now I’m sitting in my dorm writing this. Trying not to fall asleep while I write. I still have pop up drills, a surfing science class, and a lecture today. I desperately need a nap.